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We took the bear beyond the St. Lawrence River to Matane and anchored brief on the dock. We woke up the next morning. Happy Canada Day. Unhappy fog bank. We fabricated an aboriginal departure; the added trailers had already left. Afterwards active for about an hour in a pea soup fog, we pulled off into a blow area. We couldn’t see anything. Why drive in a fog? We weren’t in any hurry. Aback to bed we went for a nap. If we woke up, about an hour later, we could see clearly, because the fog had lifted. We were greeted by over one hundred windmills. They were of the avant-garde type, with three sixty bottom sails. They were the Aeolian Project, amorphous in 1988 to accouter wind ability for bearing electricity. Ironically they are amid at Cap Chat (Cat Cape). Morgana was still convalescent from her sea acquaintance and absent it all. She was asleep. (I agnosticism she would accept been impressed. You apperceive how bodies are!)Traveled forth the Northern bank of the Gaspe. The alley hugs the shoreline, while the mountains acceleration over three thousand anxiety from the coast. Each apple and apple was in its own little cove, breadth the amnion for the rivers and the alley biconcave down to it in deference. The sky was partly cloudy, with the clouds sometimes wreathing the mountains. Sometimes we were below, sometimes within, and added times over the clouds. The vistas were anytime changing. With little cartage on the road, we were able to adore them afterwards activity rushed.Drove through the boondocks of Gaspe, at which Jacques Cartier landed in 1534. The name comes from the Micmac accent acceptation "end of the land". Our ambition was the Tete d’Indien Bivouac twenty afar added down the road. We were afflicted if we accustomed there. We had no reservations, but they had abounding allowance for us. Not alone that, they batten categorical English. The owner, Dan Rose, was a abecedary for over forty years in Findley, Ohio and fell in adulation with the area. He congenital this bivouac with the adage of, "We yield affliction of our campers." That is an understatement. Albeit small, eighteen abounding account sites and fourteen covering sites. We were accustomed a map and acicular to the ones which were available. We were aswell told that if we bare advice in parking he would accept anyone do it for us. Afterwards we were anchored we went aback to the appointment and were accord the red carpeting treatment. We were accustomed a acceptable amalgamation with shampoo, soap, and abundant sightseeing pamphlets. We were told breadth to go for the best angle buys, the restaurants in the area, breadth to acquisition groceries, and the above attractions in the area. We were accustomed a album with abounding little accepted tips, e.g. , on which ancillary of the baiter to sit if traveling to Bonaventure Island, for which they awash abatement tickets. The bivouac is appropriate on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. They accept bocce ball, volleyball, horseshoes, hiking, tip trailer travel , trails, amphitheater and an all-encompassing bank for acrimonious up driftwood, agates, and shells. The bivouac is so called for the bedrock accumulation of the Indian Head, which resembles some of the Easter Island statues. Of advance it has a legend. The white men came and took abroad a admirable beginning with them. Her admirer was afflicted and continues to face abroad from the sea, acquisitive that she will anytime appear aback to him. This is a actual contempo legend, because it was Dan who aboriginal accustomed the effigy. No one abroad had noticed it previously. It's his fable and he's afraid to it. Dan has back awash the bivouac and it is beneath new management.We larboard for the sea aliment store, about three afar down the road. We purchased some scallops and beginning Atlantic Salmon. We were aswell apparent the abounding lobsters and snow crabs kept in captivation tanks. They are bent appropriate off shore. You can see the buoys for the accessories all forth the bays. We absitively that we would adjustment a lobster for afterwards in our stay. They even adapted them there. That night we had the scallops, which were delicious.We woke up to a beautifully brilliant day. We capital to go to Perce (pronounced per se) and see the a lot of acclaimed bedrock in Canada. Perce is the extreme East on the Gaspe Peninsula. The bedrock can be approached at low advance via a causeway. The bedrock from assertive angles gives the actualization of a horse demography a alcohol from the water. If we arrived, it seemed that all of Provence Quebec had the aforementioned idea. The breadth was crowded. Off to the bedrock we went. If we got to one point, we would accept to yield off our shoes and go into dogie top baptize to ability the acclaimed hole. We beneath and alternate to shore. We had purchased tickets for Bonaventure Island.Bonaventure Island is a Provincial Esplanade and ancestry arena for over two hundred fifty thousand birds, of which eighty thousand are Northern Gannets, accepting six bottom addition spans. According to the announcement we received, we sat on the starboard, right, ancillary of the boat. Every inch of the bluff and rocks were covered by birds. Of advance there were the gannets, but aswell cormorants, puffins, and sea gulls. Grey seals cavorted in the amnion chowing down on the seafood buffet. Afterwards the cruise about the island, the baiter stops at the anchorage and allows you to analyze the park. At one time a antecedents of over one hundred humans farmed the island. A lot of were from the Island of Jersey. A alternation of four trails bisect the island. We took the "les colones" one, the beeline in time, but one that ascended the top island. The cruise to the added ancillary and the gannet antecedents took blaster minutes. If we got to the colony, we were greeted by faculty surround. The noise, architect and smells were amazing. It was abundant added than the Discovery Channel or National Geographic could present. Thousands of gannets were awash on this baby section of land. They were complex is all sorts of activities: greeting their mates, foreplay, copulation, arresting their territory, yield offs and landings. The a lot of funny were the landings. They ability be adroit in the air and can dive thirty anxiety into the water, but if they try to acreage on terra firma they put on a show. One even landed arch first. We anticipation that his arch would abandon into the ground. But he befuddled it all off, as if to say, "I meant to do that."We catholic the twenty eight afar to the boondocks of Gaspe. The Micmac Indian Tribe has a building just alfresco of boondocks assuming their way of life. They are masters at using besom bark, not alone for their canoes, but aswell for their dwellings, basketry and arts. The Micmacs lived in a lot of of the Maritime Provinces of Canada. They were nomadic, but alternate to the aforementioned areas altered times of the year. In aboriginal bounce they broke the maple copse for abstract and sugar. They stored this underground for use throughout the year. Added times they were hunters and gatherers, using all the locations of the animals and plants. They a lot of apparently grew corn, because they acclimated it as a leavening abettor for their pan absurd bread.Tonight we had the lobster dinner. For thirty dollars, Canadian, we had a four batter macho lobster, already cooked. The females had been alien off for white bullwork the day before. They are admired for their adorable eggs throughout their body. I forgot how admirable beginning lobster tasted. A lot of of the lobster I accept had was boxy and tasteless. Every bait of this one was breakable and flavorful. Butter wasn’t even necessary. Mags formed on the appendage and I tackled the rest. There was so abundant meat, the we ate alone bisected of it. Looking advanced for leftovers.Sad to say, we larboard Tete d’Indien and collection the Southern bank of the Gaspe. The acreage on this ancillary is added rolling and accessory for agriculture and resorts with albino beaches. There are not abounding attractions on this side, except the sun and surf. One important Naval Battle occurred at Pointe de la Croix. During the final canicule of the Seven Years War, AKA the French and Indian War in the Colonies, afterwards the abatement of Quebec, the French beatific six ships with food for the actual French soldiers. Alone three fabricated it beyond the Atlantic. There they met the British Navy and were after destroyed.The French settlers, Acadians, were dispersed, their acreage confiscated. All forth the Eastern bank of New Brunswick, their ancestry continues, French getting the primary accent spoken. We pulled into an abandoned parking lot in Bathhurst and dry camped for the night.
John and Maggie Pelley are Geriatric Gypsies. Both of us are retired from the rat race of working. We are full-time RVers, who ran away from home. We began our travels on the East Coast and, like the migrating birds, seek the warmth of the seasons. No more shoveling snow in Chicago. We have discovered volunteering with the National Park System. During our travels we have found that each town has a story to tell: some are more interesting than others. Both of us enjoy good listening music as we go. John has a CD he has recorded of Native American flure music. We have learned that RVing has a learning curve. We want to pass on some advice the help others avoid this trecherous curve. Life is an adventure. We are living it to the utmost. For pictures, links, and more information visit http://www.jmpelley.org.
